October 2024
Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos is a riot of life. The streets bloom with marigolds, altars glow with candles, and the air hums with mezcal and memory. I arrived in October, expecting a somber holiday, but found a celebration that’s equal parts joy and reverence. Oaxaca doesn’t mourn its dead—it invites them to dance.
I started in the Zócalo, where families built ofrendas piled with tamales, mole, and photos. The city was a kaleidoscope: skeletons painted on faces, parades with brass bands, and cemeteries turned into all-night parties. I joined a procession in Xoxocotlán, where Juan, a local teacher, explained the holiday’s heart.
Juan, 41, has celebrated Día de los Muertos his whole life. “It’s not about death—it’s about connection,” he said, arranging marigolds on his family’s altar. “We invite our loved ones back.” He grew up in Oaxaca, where traditions run deep. “Tourists think it’s spooky, but it’s love.” His favorite spot? The Panteón San Miguel at midnight, where families sing and share stories. Juan’s tip? Try mole negro at a local market stall, not a fancy restaurant. “The best food comes from abuelas.”
Skip the crowded Zócalo and visit the Mercado de Abastos, where vendors sell everything from chapulines to Day of the Dead bread. For a quiet escape, hike to the ruins of Monte Albán, an ancient Zapotec city with sweeping views. If you’re feeling artsy, check out the street art in Jalatlaco, a neighborhood bursting with color. For a quirky bite, try Casa de la Abuela for tlayudas that’ll ruin you for all other food.
Reflections on Culture, Food, and Habits
Oaxaca’s culture is rooted in its indigenous soul—Zapotec, Mixtec, alive in every weaving and dish. The food is bold: mole’s smoky depth, tlayudas’ crunch, mezcal’s fire. Locals eat slowly, savoring, sharing. Día de los Muertos shows their view of life—death isn’t an end but a thread in the story. Oaxacans are warm, proud, their habits shaped by community and ritual. The city taught me to celebrate the fleeting, to dance with the ghosts we carry.